White Giraffe Home
Prologue
Some Initial Thoughts
Tanzania
...Tarangire National Park
...Serengeti National Park
...Oldapai Gorge
...Ngorongoro Crater
...Lake Manyara National Park
...Arusha National Park
...Selous Game Reserve
......Rufiji River Camp
......Sand Rivers Camp
...Mikumi National Park
...Ruaha National Park
......Ruaha River Lodge
......Mwagusi Sand River Camp
...Zanzibar
Zimbabwe
...Zambezi National Park
...Victoria Falls
...Ivory Lodge
...Hwange National Park
...Sable Valley Lodge
...Mana Pools National Park
...Motopos Hills
Kenya
...Sweetwaters Game Reserve
...Samburu National Reserve
...The Ark
...Amboseli
...Masai Mara
Epilogue
Contact Us
Back to Hommert Central
RUAHA NATIONAL PARK

Ruaha National Park, Tanzania’s second largest National Park, covers 12,950 square kilometers. The Park derives its name from the Ruaha River which traverses the Park. However, the term “ruaha” means “river” or “stream” in the language of the Hehe people who originally lived in the area, and the word “ruaha” was incorrectly used to name the River. Literally interpreted, the name of the Ruaha River is “River River”. The actual Hehe name of the River is Lyambangari, (1) but no one has corrected this misnaming.

The Ruaha River flows through the eastern portion of the Park, its bed being part of the lowest level of the great rift escarpment, (2) traversing open plains and gorges on its way to the Rufiji River. The central portion of the Park is the watershed between the Ruaha River and the Nzombe River, the two permanent sources of water in the Park. The vegetation of the Park ranges from treeless grasslands to swamps to evergreen forests. Tree species include acacias, figs, tamarind, palms and the magnificent baobabs. Scrub brush also is predominant in some areas, guaranteed to be infested with tsetse flies. (3)

To arrive at Ruaha National Park required another 300 kilometer drive from Mikumi. However, this time the first 200 kilometers were on fairly well maintained tarmac, making the journey much easier than the trip from the Selous to Mikumi. We passed through Iringa, a large commercial center in central Tanzania. Our drivers stopped at Iringa, allowing us an opportunity to tour the local market, an enormous construct overflowing with merchants pedaling all sorts of goods. Irene and several other group members acquired some baskets, drums and other souvenirs for the trip while Gary and I searched out a purveyor of Konyagi and other spirits. While waiting for our drivers to return, an older gentlemen approached Gary and I to strike up a conversation. Much to our surprise his main interest was the personal problems being encountered by President Clinton vis-à-vis the Starr investigation. Even in middle Africa people had heard of Monica.



Leaving Iringa and the paved highway, we turned onto a dirt road for the last stretch to Ruaha National Park. Lunch again was a picnic on the road side, although this time a young Masai tribesman joined our group as we ate. I never saw him approach, nor did I see any herd he may have been tending. All I know is that he suddenly appeared. Since he looked at us hungrily, we were glad to share a part of our meal with him, much to his apparent delight.

Several more kilometers down the road we topped a hill and came to a sudden stop. Climbing out of the vehicle, our mouths agape, we stared at the road stretching for numerous kilometers in front of us. Having already driven for hours, we had hoped our destination was near. The sight before us belied our misguided hopes. To quote an unknown author, what was still waiting for us was “Miles and miles of bloody Afrika!”

As in the Selous, we would be staying at two camps in the Park: Ruaha River Lodge and Mwagusi Sand River Camp.



NEXT...Ruaha River Lodge


Miles and Miles of Bloody Afrika

Footnotes
(1) The interpretation for which I do not know.
(2) As seen in the northern portion of Tanzania; see Chapter Two above.
(3) I agree with the sentiment of our driver – if you see a tsetse fly, “kill it – kill it dead.”