Once you have made the decision to undertake a safari, you will need to decide how best to experience this African adventure. There are many types of photographic safaris from which to choose. In addition, there can be a great divergence in costs depending upon the type of safari chosen, the activities undertaken and the time of year you go. We have stayed in lodges and permanent tent facilities, as well as have camped in tents pitched just for our group. Each produced its own unique experience.

Another factor to consider in choosing a particular safari is your tour leader. Ours has been Gary Clarke, the proprietor of Cowabunga Safaris, Ltd. in Topeka, Kansas. Gary was the best we could hope for in a safari guide. He had been the director of the “world famous” Topeka Zoo for many years prior to forming Cowabunga Safaris, and has personally lead more than 100 photo safaris to Africa. Our local zoo personnel gave Gary high recommendations and the Topeka Zoo under Gary’s stewardship had an excellent reputation among the zoos of this country. Gary has only the highest regard for and considerable knowledge of Africa, its people and animals, which he shares willingly with his clientele. And he has an extraordinary sense of humor, as evidenced by the name of his company. His knowledge of Africa, from the people to their customs to the animals to the country side, enriched our experience immeasurably.

Once you have chosen your African safari, you need to go there with an open mind and, most importantly, be flexible. Your best laid plans can and usually do go wrong. This was evidenced by the precarious beginnings of our first trip to Africa, which almost did not happen. Irene found the trip’s itinerary in a publication from our local zoo: two weeks in four nature areas of Tanzania. Having wanted to travel to Africa for some time, I was ready to sign up immediately. Irene, on the other hand, did not share my initial enthusiasm. However, after viewing a magnificent slide presentation by the organizers of the trip, she agreed to go, albeit harboring some trepidation. This was the fall of 1990 and, by then, the initial stages of the first Persian Gulf War with Iraq had commenced. Ultimately, only one other person in addition to my wife and I registered for the trip and our first safari to Africa was canceled. But to our rescue came Cowabunga Safaris. Gary had developed the original itinerary and our local zoo (who used the same booking outfit as Cowabunga) had adopted it. We subsequently learned Gary was leading an identical trip. After a cursory investigation of Mr. Clarke and Cowabunga Safaris, and for reasons not completely clear other than a “What the hell - go for it” attitude, Irene and I signed up with Gary. We were going on safari to Tanzania, one canceled trip and a war notwithstanding.

Another initial thought is that Africa is a goodly distance from the United States. Our first trip required a nine hour flight from Chicago to Amsterdam and a nine hour flight from Amsterdam to Dar es Salaam, the capital of the Republic of Tanzania. From Dar, our jet flew north for another hour to Kilimanjaro International Airport, which is located outside of Arusha, the geographical midpoint of East Africa and the jumping off point for our first safari. Subsequent safaris have also taken us through London, although one trip took me from Kennedy International Airport non stop to Johannesburg, South Africa and then north to Zimbabwe. There is no quick way to Africa from the U.S. so settle in for a long ride both going and coming. Not surprising, the anticipation of the safari to come makes the journey there easier than the return trip.

Our flights have borne out the adage “what can go wrong will.” On the scheduled departure date for our first safari, the sun was shining and the temperature was warm, although a thick layer of ice from an earlier winter storm still blanketed the ground. Upon arrival at the airport, we were informed that Chicago, the trip’s initial port of departure, was experiencing a snow storm and that O’Hare International Airport was temporarily closed. To make matters worse, our flight to Chicago was canceled. We were booked on another flight, but it was delayed. So we began our wait. I was not too concerned at first since our original flight plan called for a several hour layover in Chicago. Our only consolation was that, if we could not fly to Chicago, neither could the rest of our group, nor could our plane leave O’Hare. There was only one slight problem. If the plane out of Chicago was delayed until the next day, we would miss our connecting flight to Tanzania. At that time, the next flight to Tanzania from Amsterdam, our connecting city, would not be for several more days. We had to leave Chicago that day.

After a delay of several hours, the speaker system finally announced that our flight was to leave for Chicago immediately. Everyone scurried aboard and we departed to a sincere round of applause from the passengers. We arrived at O’Hare without further incident, but our arrival gate was several terminals from our departure gate. We hurried to the check in to discover that our flight was scheduled to depart shortly. While being issued our boarding passes , another small group hurried to the check in counter behind us. I noticed the Cowabunga Safaris emblem on one of their carry on bags and, being astute, deduced that this was our group out of Topeka. We had finally met Gary Clarke. After everyone checked in and proper introductions were made, we all proceeded to the gate where we met the remainder of our entourage. Boarding occurred soon thereafter and we were on our way, although it was touch and go for awhile.

On our trip to southern Tanzania, we were again delayed in leaving from our airport (wind shear this time and not a winter storm). We arrived after our connecting flight was scheduled to depart, convinced we had missed it. However, to our surprise, after we deplaned and entered the terminal, we spotted the remainder of our group. Coincidentally, our connecting plane was experiencing mechanical difficulties and was delayed. After repairs were effectuated, we all left together, none the worse from the delays. Somehow, everything managed to work out.

Arriving at African countries can also be an interesting experience. In our tour books and other literature we received about our first trip (albeit not from Gary), Irene and I were informed that the places we would be staying in Tanzania generally would accept credit cards and U.S. dollars. We were also informed that we should be prepared to tip in U.S. dollars and that, since there were not too many locations where we could change larger denominations into smaller bills, we should bring sufficient one dollar bills. Accordingly, we brought about seventy-five one dollar bills with us and limited the amount of larger bills that we carried. We quickly discovered that the “experts” on which we were relying were wrong, at least this time. At the Arusha airport, we were informed that it was illegal to use foreign currency within Tanzania. Only local currency (shillings) could be used. In addition, each non resident entering the country was required to purchase the equivalent of U.S. $50 in shillings. You could not exchange any remaining shillings for foreign currency on exiting the country, so you had to spend whatever you cashed. At this time, we decided to use our one dollar bills to the greatest extent possible since we would have no further use of them. We also decided to exchange $200 for approximately 40,000 shillings so as not to have to acquire shillings later in the trip if at all possible.

Which leads to another initial point. On subsequent trips to Tanzania, there was no such local currency requirement and we were allowed to spend U.S. dollars within the country. Accordingly, any information which you receive about your destination should be updated to the extent possible to determine what, if anything, has changed.

From the currency station, and carrying our large wad of shillings, we proceeded through the health station without incident to the luggage claim area, which again brings me back to my thought that what can go wrong will. Although my bag was waiting for us, Irene’s was no where to be found. Luckily, she had packed a change of clothing in her carry on. One of our fellow safari goers was not so lucky. The airline had decided that she too did not need her luggage. Unfortunately, she had not packed a carry on and was dependent on the largesse of her fellow female travelers for suitable clothing until her bags finally arrived.

The lost luggage gives rise to another thought: limit the amount of your luggage. As we were waiting for our bags in Arusha, I noticed the amount of luggage of the other members of our group (many of whom had been to Africa before). Where Irene and I had packed in two huge suitcases and two carry on bags, everyone else was packed in a small suitcase or bag and one carry on. It was immediately obvious that either we had over packed or everyone else had under packed. Unfortunately, it was not the latter. Limit the amount of clothing and other items you pack. It is not necessary to take many changes of clothes and airlines may enforce strict restrictions on the number and size of bags. Attire on safari is informal and outdoors, and clothes can be easily washed. A medium size bag and a small carry on (plus camera equipment) are more than sufficient, as we proved on our later trips. But do be prepared for the weather, which can change dramatically in a short period of time depending upon where in Africa you are and the time of year you are there. Dress in layers that can be added or shed as necessary. We have experienced temperatures ranging from very hot in southern Tanzania to below freezing in Zimbabwe.

Another factor to consider for your safari is the type of vehicle in which you tour. In Tanzania, our safari vehicles were 4 wheel drive land rovers, although I did see many minivans with pop tops. Each Land Rover could seat one person in the passenger seat, three people in the back seat and two people in the rear if it was not full of gear. Over both the back seat and rear compartment was a hatch which opened, through which passengers could stand for game viewing. In Zimbabwe, we toured in open air trucks, each containing tiers of seats (some more padded than others) usually capable of seating between six and nine passengers. In Kenya, we toured in minivans.

Two final initial thoughts. First, you will need shots to enter the African country of your destination and to return to the U.S. Your doctor or local health clinic can inform you as to those which are required. You should also inquire as to shots which are recommended although not required. For our second trip to Tanzania, a cholera shot was not required. However, there had been outbreaks of cholera in the country and officials were giving cholera shots to those entering the country without the inoculation. Rather than receiving a shot in Tanzania, we opted for one from our local health clinic prior to departure.

The final initial thought is to consider your land operator. In Tanzania, your group is usually with one land operator, who takes you from Park to Park (or meets you there). In Zimbabwe, we had several land operators who met us at the various locations, and in Kenya there was a combination of the two. The quality of the land operator will impact greatly upon your experience.

In summary, if you keep an open mind and remain flexible, and are not undone by schedules being delayed or missed entirely, bureaucratic nightmares, hotels without hot water or electricity or both and other minor inconveniences, your experience will be more enjoyable, rewarding and memorable.