Our itinerary for our first safari to Zimbabwe included a drive back to Victoria Falls from Zambezi National Park, a quick tour of the Falls and neighboring town and then on to Hwange National Park airport (1) mid-afternoon where we would be met by our next operators. This would allow for a little over one half day to tour the Falls and to shop if you were so inclined.

We arrived at the parking lot outside the entrance to the Falls to a welcoming committee of several banded mongoose. The roar of the water cascading over the Falls could be clearly heard as we exited our vehicle, and intensified as we neared the waterfall. Inside the gate is a small museum, dedicated to the Falls and Dr. David Livingstone. Dr. Livingstone is credited with being the first white explorer to see the Falls, which occurred on November 16, 1855. He named the Falls after Queen Victoria and in his journal he wrote: “Scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in flight.” How to better describe the Falls I do not know. (2)

Access to the Falls on the Zimbabwe side of the Zambezi River (3) is on paved paths leading to the Falls and then down the gorge, with many viewing opportunities. August was the end of the dry season, so the amount of water cascading over the top was somewhat reduced. But even still, the views were magnificent. The Falls are approximately 5,600 feet wide and 12,000 feet wide and is divided into five separate waterfalls: Devil’s Cataract, Eastern Cataract, Horseshoe Falls, Main Falls and Rainbow Falls.

Many of the trails around the Falls were wet due to the spray, but this did not deter us from traversing them. In fact, as a result of this constant spray, much of the vegetation surrounding the Falls is a rain forest. We took our time and followed the various trails all around for a multitude of views of the Falls. We caught the Falls between two cliffs, in a clearing amongst the bushes and trees of the rain forest surrounding the Falls and from down river. From each angle, the sight was awesome. And, more often than not, a rainbow arced across our sight of view.

In 1997, I returned to Victoria Falls with Gary. During this trip we stayed two nights at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge to conclude our safari. The Hotel provided hourly shuttle service to the Falls and town and then back. Gary and I caught the morning shuttle. This time I bypassed the museum and proceeded directly to the top of the Falls. It was exactly as I remembered from our first visit. It was August again, the end of the dry season. The roar of the falling water reverberated through the gorge, and a perpetual mist hung in the air. Rainbows arced from the River below. The scene was just as awe inspiring as the first time. If I find myself in Zimbabwe again, I will gladly return.

I was also quite pleased with Victoria Falls Safari Lodge. The accommodations were wonderful. In the main lodge building, towering over the surrounding area was a loft with a tremendous view of the waterhole the Hotel had constructed several hundred yards away. The hole had gained acceptance with animals in the area and there was a good deal of activity around it. And at 5:00 p.m. on both days, right before sunset, a large herd of cape buffalo made its way to the waterhole to slate their thirst at the end of the day. They appeared suddenly, a trail of dust rising behind them. After drinking, they disappeared just as mysteriously.

On the second evening, as the herd moved quickly to the water, Gary and I noticed an older buffalo struggling to keep up. He was clearly ailing, dragging a leg behind him. Each step required tremendous energy, and we could feel his agony all the way in the loft. For a while, it did not appear that he would make it to the waterhole but, somehow, he did. He drank for some time, not moving from the edge of the water. As the herd left, he followed, slowly and still in agony. Given his condition, he was not long for this world, an easy mark for an opportunistic predator. This increased our appreciation for the conditions that these animals had to endure in the African wilds.

Footnotes
(1) Air Zimbabwe flies regularly scheduled flights between Hwange National Park, Victoria Falls, Kariba and Harare, making travel within Zimbabwe convenient. Of course, this only speaks to the time we were there. Things may have changed since then.
(2) One way to view the Falls is by small aircraft, aptly named the “Flight of Angels”.
(3) The Zambezi River, including the Falls, forms the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia.